Julien Coudray 1518 Le Jaseur Boréal

— The “Jaseur Boréal” is a unique piece belonging to the collection “Oeuvres Manufactura 1528 – Les Oiseaux”.

Julien Coudray 1528 Jaseur Boreal

The 39mm case of The Jaseur Boréal is made from solid 18ct 5N red gold. It houses the in-house mechanical movement also made from solid 18ct 5N red gold (manufacturing process protected by several patents), hand-wound, hand-engraved and hand-decorated. It includes 34 jewels and offers a power-reserve of more than 55 hours.

The solid 18ct 5N red gold dial comprises 13 parts. Traditional « grand feu » black and white enamelled domed cartouches house the Roman numerals. The centre of the dial is made from enamelled solid 18ct gold featuring a “grand feu” enamel miniature of the “jaseur boréal” bird, using Petitot’s “point by point” technique (1630). In a discreet window at 12 o’clock, an enamelled gold oil drop symbol will appear after four years in operation, when the watch must be serviced.

Julien Coudray 1528 Jaseur Boreal

The Jaseur Boréal, 1/1 unique piece © Julien Coudray

A hand-stitched light pink salmon strap lined with calf completes the watch. It is equiped with a solid 18ct 5N red gold buckle with engraved pictogram.

95 % of the watch is made from one kilogram of solid 18ct 5N red gold: movement, dial, case, crown and buckle.
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Julien Coudray 1528 Jaseur Boreal

Detail of the “grand feu” enamel miniature of the bird, in the center of the dial. © Julien Coudray

LONGINES wrist elegant timepiece accompanied journey landscape

Longines wrist autumn tourism season portrait of elegant timepieces recommended journey accompanied by changing scenery
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Clear hint of coolness in the air, revealing a pleasant autumn to the party;  slightly blowing autumn, bringing a fleeting beauty of landscapes, invite people to embark on the journey in time to experience the scenery changes. Famous Swiss clock watch manufacturer Longines watch the occasion of the autumn tourist season the occasion, portrait recommend two elegant watches – classic engraved Series 1938 twenty-four hours of military watches and Imier series rose gold diamond female form , regardless of is filled with the spirit of the traveler adventurer, or will go for historical and cultural tour of entrants, all Longines timepieces with high performance accompanied by the road every minute, enjoy the journey of changing scenery.

Men’s Watches Recommended:  two ground military watch adventurer spirit

For full adventurer spirit of men, for the exploration of the unknown world, to urge them to go on the road again. Engraved Longines Classic Series 1938 twenty-four hours military watch is for those traveling adventurer special selection, accompanied them crosses the more water, surf in extreme environments. It owns the 24 hours over two time zones when the function is more travelers should they need to provide the most critical functions, so that the wearer to enjoy the thrill of time to master. Longines Heritage 1930 production of military-style tables minimalist aesthetic philosophy, 1938 twenty-four hours military watch has a huge white Arabic numerals and minute dials, matt black surface with stark contrasts, to ensure clear reading. Coated with Super-LumiNova ® luminous hands and hour digital material is guaranteed wearer in low light conditions when you can easily read. The most striking bright red pointer second time zone contrasting with the black surface, in contrast, it memorable, while the red pointer is also a symbol of every adjustment a memorable journey.

LONGINES腕间优雅时计 相伴旅途风景
Engraved Longines Classic Series 1938 twenty-four hours military watch

LONGINES腕间优雅时计 相伴旅途风景
Longines Classic Series 1938 engraved military watches Longines Heritage 1930 table design and production of military followed its typical minimalist style aesthetic philosophy. This timepiece diameter 42 mm, equipped with self-winding mechanical movement L704, displays hours, minutes, seconds, date display at 3 o’clock, in addition to bright red pointer indicates the second time zone. Striking huge white Arabic numerals coated with Super-LumiNova ® luminous material, white minute dial matt black surface with stark contrasts. Black synthetic material strap sewn with white thread for this new timepiece Adds a touch of color in America.

Women’s Watches Recommended:  Imier town’s historical and cultural tours

Compared full of the unknown and challenging adventure, exotic historical and cultural tours are also all over the surprise, whether it is the vicissitudes of the castle tour, or visit the artistic and cultural celebrities hometown, or will roam in the history of classical museum hosts, let us put slow pace, quietly walked trip destination, with one seat to carefully taste the ancient city because of the time precipitated brilliance. Longines Aksoy Mia series (Saint-Imier) Rose Gold Diamond Ladies Watch then led the travelers into a beautiful old town and the history behind the legend.

The seventh century AD, a 名叫伊米亚 (Imier) monk accidentally Jura mountains in a valley discovered springs and lush meadows, and decided to stay reclaim the land, followed by people died in Ymirjar He added the title of the saints, and in the ninth century to the area known as Saint Imier (Shengyimiya), which Imier. About a thousand years later in 1832, Longines was founded in Imier, Longines Imier series inspiration from the brand a long purest watchmaking tradition of the founding flourished.

Imier series rose gold diamond female form smooth lines and independent of the case lugs showing classic and modern design of the perfect balance between hanging on the bezel and dial on top of the 71 diamond watch more highlights Behind the bright light of culture, but also bring out the charming and elegant lady.

LONGINES腕间优雅时计 相伴旅途风景
Longines Aksoy Mia series rose gold diamond female form

LONGINES腕间优雅时计 相伴旅途风景
Longines Aksoy Mia series inspired by the brand’s long-standing founding purest watchmaking tradition flourished. Fluent lines and independent of the case lugs to give these new products a classical and modern design of the perfect balance between. Case diameter is 26 mm, rose gold, white mother of pearl dial decorated with 11 diamonds scale, bezel decorated with 60 diamonds.

Greubel Forsey Au GPHG 2013

— Two Greubel Forsey timepieces have been pre-selected for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and will take part in the final competiton.

Greubel Forsey GT Asymétrique

Last Spring, Greubel Forsey submitted two timepieces to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2013: the GMT Asymétrique, in the Grande Complication category, and the Double Balancier 35°, in the Men’s Complication category.Both were pre-selected by the jury and will take part in the competition to win the prize in their respective category. The prizes will be awarded during an official ceremony in Geneva on November 15, 2013

GMT Asymétrique

Greubel Forsey GMT red gold

GMT Asymétrique, red gold © Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey launched the first GTM Asymétrique in 2011, featuring a white gold case. The model that is taking part in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie 2013 is the latest version, in red gold 5N.  Apart from the material of the case and the plates and bridge that have undergone a galvanic treatment and now boast an anthracite colour, the 2013 and 2011 versions are similar. The movement is the same.

The main characteristic of the GMT Asymétrique is  the three-dimensional temporal representation: a rotating terrestrial globe offering a truly original view of time all over the world. This technical yet poetic marvel provides us with a completely new way of perceiving the different time zones. While the globe makes one complete rotation every 24 hours anticlockwise – the Earth’s natural rotational direction – the position of the continents can be neatly cross-referenced with the 24-hour, day-and-night indicator on the equatorial chapter ring. The globe is complemented at 10 o’clock by the 12-hour second time zone dial giving a precise indication of the time in a designated second country or city. Turning over the GMT reveals the beautifully crafted ‘worldtime’ disc bearing the names of 24 cities each representing one of the different global time zones.

Cascading clockwise around the dial-side are the main indications comprising a principal hour-minute dial at 1 o’clock, on top of which is a small seconds dial at 2 o’clock, while at 3 o’clock is a sectorial power reserve indicator. The specially developed movement of the GMT features the 25° inclined Tourbillon 24 Secondes cage, one of Greubel Forsey’s major patented inventions.

Double Balancier 35°

Greubel Forsey Double balancier 35°

Double balancier 35°. © Greubel Forsey

The Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed‐oscillators. This unique regulating system comprises two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates via the gear train to the time display. The two inclined oscillators are not superimposed, but are spatially disposed in different three dimensional planes.

The skeletonised gold hands with high‐legibility Super‐LumiNova tips indicate the time against a polished black‐oxidised gold chapter ring. Between the two visible inclined balances of the Double Balancier 35°, the small seconds at 7 o’clock displays the running instantaneous average of the two regulators, while a 72‐hour power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock keeps track of the optimal power available from the two co‐axial, fast‐rotating mainspring barrels. The 35° inclination of the inclined balances allows for larger diameter balance wheels (better inertia for more stable timekeeping) in a very comfortably‐sized 43.5mm case.

The complete manual winding movement comprises 365 components, 28 of which make up the spherical differential. It is powered by two concentric fast‐rotating mainspring barrels that provide optimal power for 72 hours. The two oscillators feature variable inertia balance wheels, Phillips terminal curves and beat at 3Hz/21,600 APH. Plates and bridges are in nickel silver, frosted and spotted, with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight‐grained flanks and anthracite treatment (NAC).

Patek Philippe Touring an intense Manufacture.

— Behind the gold and diamonds, the frenzied desires of aficionados and its formidable reputation, Patek Philippe is an organisation dedicated to incredible high-quality watch production.

Patek Philippe Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates (Geneva, Switzerland)

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Viewed from the outside, things look pretty straightforward. Between its sky-high auction value, its concern for quality, its mastery of horological complications and its considerable independence, Patek Philippe is quite simply the most prestigious watch brand of them all. Fair enough, one might well debate the truth and particularly the scope of this statement, since grandeur may reveal itself in a number of different ways within the watch industry. But to cut to the chase, let’s say it’s one of the top three most prestigious brands. This view is steadily becoming firmly established in people’s minds as an obvious fact, at the risk of making them somewhat blasé… Until the day one actually sets foot in the Manufacture located in Plan-les-Ouates on the outskirts of Geneva. Anyone seriously interested in watchmaking is naturally keen to take a closer look at the production facilities of the major brands that open their doors to visitors. And one might even be tempted to think that one such factory tour is very much like another. While it is true that the processes, the sequences of events and the general pattern of such visits are similar, everything in fact lies in the details and the ways of doing things are definitely never identical. That is why discovering Patek Philippe’s production is a unique experience that proves to be a genuinely head-turning, eye-popping treat.

Patek Philippe sertissage

Patek Philippe performs the gemsetting operations on its watch cases in-house, whatever their scope and complexity. © David Chokron /WorldTempus

Stronger
It is simply impossible to describe this tour in detail. The profusion of objects and operations prevents any coherent narrative summary, so we will have to stick to a conceptual summary. Patek Philippe has attained a degree of production autonomy that is virtually unique; a level of development quality that places it in a league of its own; and meticulous craftsmanship that while perhaps not unequalled definitely stands out by its sheer breadth and depth. No other brand produces such a variety and quantity of Grande Complication watches; no other brand at this level of prestige has so many tools and machines. Patek Phillippe blanks, cuts, burnishes and polishes its wheels, pinions, plates, bridges, springs, levers… and even its screws! Is independence an end in itself? Only if it serves to guarantee execution on a par with its demanding standards that would otherwise be unattainable.

Patek Philippe polissage

Last in a long series of polishes applied to a Nautilus bracelet © David Chokron /WorldTempus

Unusual

In response to my astonished reaction to his explanations, my guide kept saying: “sure, obviously”. To which I repeatedly replied: “there’s definitely nothing obvious about it”. What he considered as standard practice in fact denoted exceptional concern for details and complexity. Among a number of examples, Patek Philippe uses only a single spark erosion machine, serving to cut out parts that are too thin to be machined by a milling-cutter that cuts into the material. In a comparably sized factory, especially one producing so many Grande Complication models, one would expect to find around five of them. Patek Philippe has in fact taken the quality of its machining to such a high level that it can produce even the most detailed parts using tools that others would consider too unwieldy. The same goes for profile turning: Patek Philippe uses exclusively computer numerically controlled profile-turning machines. The size of its series, meaning the maximum number of identical parts, is so small that standard cam-type profile-turning machines (which are heavy, reliable, stable and widely appreciated) are simply not suitable – offering eloquent proof that the diversity of its production attains heights rarely seen elsewhere.

Patek Philippe ressort

This tiny spring has been machined and not cut using spark-erosion technology: a true technical feat. © David Chokron /WorldTempus

Diversity
However, even more distinctly than the manufacturing and assembly operations relating to the movement, cases are the true gems in Patek Philippe’s production crown. And this is not due to the army of polishers, although they naturally play an important role. Nor is it because of the number of operations involved in shaping the cases, creating all manner of barely noticeable design elements. Once again, the core of the matter lies in the uncompromisingly rigorous approach implemented across the board. Which other brand can claim to such a large and fully occupied gemsetting workshop? Or to such a variety of precious dial-making methods ranging from grand feu enamelling to miniature enamelling along with guilloché motifs and pantographic reproduction? The brand applies the full force of its considerable expertise and resources to all stages in production. Witness the technical department that comprises no less than 110 people, including those involved in prototyping. New models are developed in six years, compared with the industry norm of around three. Talk about perfectionists!

Patek Philippe boitiers Nautilus

A Nautilus case displays two sections: one side is finely finished, while the other appears in its rough stamped state. © David Chokron /WorldTempus

Grâce à cette machine, Patek polit la denture de ses roues, une opération sous-traitée quasi-systématiquement.

Thanks to this machine, Patek Philippe is able to polishing the teeth of its wheels, an peration almost systematically outsourced by other watch manufacturers. © David Chokron /WorldTempus